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   Syracuse and Ortygia Island

182km (110 miles) S of Messina, 87km (52 miles) S of Catania, 330km (198 miles) SE of Palermo, 256km (154 miles) E of Agrigento. 

The city of Syracuse was founded around the year 735 BC making it one of the more ancient cities of Europe. It was established by colonists from Corinth and is situated by the Ionian Sea on the coast of Sicily. The city prospered and soon became an influential power centre that rivaled the city of Athens, and even challenged the might of Carthage and Rome.

The city has a history of despotism that began with Gelon, the tyrant of Gela, in the year 485 BC. Gelon came to rule over Syracuse after defeating the Carthaginians at Himera. Syracuse was attacked by Athens in 415 B.C., but the main Athenian fleet was destroyed and the soldiers on the mainland were captured. They were driven into the Latomia di Cappuccini at Piazza Cappuccini, a stone quarry, and quarantined there under the most horrible of conditions. The defeated soldiers were starved and crowded into cramped quarters. Here they were left to die. Dionysius I was one of the greatest despots that ruled over the city during the time of its greatest glory in the fourth century B.C., when it had expanded its influence as a sea power. The Romans under Marcellus attacked and defeated the city in A.D. 212. They sacked and pillaged its riches, but the greatest loss to Syracuse was the killing of its most famous son the Greek physicist-mathematician Archimedes, who was slain in his study by a Roman soldier.

Livy once called the city "the most beautiful and noble of Greek cities”, but that was in the past. Today only the ruins of that old Syracuse is worth seeing, as the city itself has been in a thousand year decline. Most of these ruins are on the island of Ortygia, which is also filled with small crafts shops and boutiques. From the mainland, Corso Umberto goes to the Ponte Nuova, which leads to the island. It is better for motorists to park in a garage, somewhere near the bridge and cross over on foot as parking is a serious problem on the island. Once you have finished your exploration and shopping spend a little time on Piazza del Duomo, off Via Cavour. This is one of the most elegant squares in Sicily.

The ancient sights are back inland from Ortygia past a shopping strip, so it would be better to take a cab. Or you can catch a bus from Ortygia at Piazza Pancali-Largo XXV Luglio. The harbor front is lined with eighteenth and nineteenth century town houses. Syracuse is very hot in summer, to escape this head for the sea. The finest beach is about 19km (2 miles) away at Fontane Bianche; bus nos. 21 and 22 leave from the Syracuse post office, Piazza delle Poste 15. If you're driving, Fontane Bianche lies to the south of the city (it's signposted); take SS115 to reach it. The same buses will take you to Lido Arenella, only 8km (5 miles) away but not as good a beach.

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